The aftermarket muffler restricts less air than the stock one so the proper thing is to re-jet the carbs to match the new configuration. I read and re-read most of the posts on carb jetting on both of the FZ1 specific forums before deciding to go with the RavenRider carb suggestions. His tips offers the best bang for the buck. The only real expense is for new main jets and the day it takes to follow all the instructions. His kit is also very flexible. You can do either or all the steps to get a noticeable improvement.
Initially, I planned on doing the most basic thing, shimming the needles, drilling the slides, and adjusting the floats. After exchanging p.m.s with va_rider, I decided to add porting the boots and modding the air filter cover. So, after riding around with the main jets in my tail bag/case for nearly three months, it was time to get them installed. Cruzman was kind enough to volunteer to help/do this so I rode the bike over to his house early in the morning after letting a rain shower or two pass.
We got started as soon as I arrived and pulled the carbs. The basic procedure can be found on Pat's FZ1 site, a veritable vault of valuable information for this model motorcycle. After a brief break to get some food and the proper bits so we could adjust the TPS, we were back at it by 1.
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| Get the carbs out! |
Taking the carbs off, I learned long allen wrenches were made for a reason. I'm glad I didn't purchase another tool set, because these likely would not have been in them. I'll be getting a set for myself and one for Cruzman for all his help!
First thing after lunch was to get access to the carb pilot circuits. There's no need for me through the how-to go into all the steps, if you want those, go here. You get the pilots to 3¼ turns out. This adjusts the idle mixture settings for the new main jets. Next, we open the top end of the carbs to gain access to the carb slides and needles. We drilled the slides to help with throttle response and shimmed the needles to richen the midrange. Finally, flip the carbs and change the main jets then set the float height to 14 mm.
Here's our video:
If I hadn't decided to do the other stuff, we woulda been finished by 3 and coulda went for a short ride. But I also wanted to port the boots. Porting the boots improves air flow through the carbs, bringing the power on a little sooner than it happens with stock boots.
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| Porting boots is messy work |
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| All ported and ready to go. |
We did the air box mod last. This was just removing the snorkel and cutting a hole in the stock lid, then tossing the rubber thing that covers it (that I didn't do until Sunday morning because some how I missed that in the instructions!). The air box mod combined with the ported boots is important to make the line from intake to combustion as smooth and as short as possible.
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| Modded Air Box Lid |
After that it was a simple matter of re-installing and syncing the carbs, and re-setting the Throttle Position Sensor. I also discovered I need a couple of pairs of needlenose pliers, a straight set and a curved set, to get access to the rubber nipple things on the boots that are used to sync the carbs.
On the shakedown ride, I discovered a more mannerly Baby. Not nearly as mannered as Cruzman's Stella, but much more than he was before. Throttle response was snappy and the bike was much smoother as it climbed through the rpms. I had good pull in all gears at all rpms, where before some of the lower rpms in higher gears resulting in a quick down shift due to lack of power.
So far, I am very pleased with the results and am glad I took the 3 years to get to know Baby stock before getting him all performance modded up. Now that I know how to ride a 4 cyl, the performance mods will help me improve my riding skills even more. I'm really looking forward to my next ride now!
Link to the advancer mod.
Thanks for reading,
patrice, theWolfTamer
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